The old deadbolt has grown lazy. You turn the thumb-turn and the bolt creeps out halfway, then needs a second push with the door pulled tight.
If your door already has a knob or lever bore and nothing above it, adding a deadbolt is a boring job in the literal sense. A jig clamps to the door at the right height, usually 140 to 150 mm above the knob centre, and guides a hole saw through the face and a smaller bit through the edge. The locksmith mortises the edge so the bolt faceplate sits flush, sets the bolt to the door's backset, then fits the cylinder outside and the thumb-turn inside. The frame is marked from the bolt itself, bored and chiselled for the strike, and the lock is tested open and closed.
Sound familiar?Mount Joy
Deadbolt Installation · Mount Joy
Scene 1
On a door with no deadbolt yet, its height is not fixed by the manufacturer but by the door in front of you. The usual spot is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which places the bolt near the strongest part of the lock stile and keeps both locks within one comfortable reach. The locksmith checks that this height misses any glass, decorative panel, hinge line or the wood block inside an insulated door, and that the frame behind that spot is solid rather than a gap between shims. If a storm door or screen door shares the opening, the bolt's thumb-turn and cylinder have to clear it as well.
Scene 2
The strike is located from the bolt itself rather than from a measurement. The bolt tip is chalked, the door is closed and the bolt is thrown firmly against the jamb to leave a mark at the true centre. The locksmith bores the pocket there with a 25 mm bit to a depth of at least 28 mm, so a 25 mm bolt seats fully and reaches its deadlocked position instead of stopping short and feeling stiff. The pocket is checked with the bolt extended before any plate goes on, because a strike screwed over a shallow hole hides the fault until the first cold morning when the door has moved.
Scene 3
You should know what is on your door in plain terms, so the visit closes with a short account: the model and grade of deadbolt fitted, its finish, the backset and bore it sits in, whether the cylinder was keyed alike or set to a new key, how many keys were cut, and what was done on the frame side. For a rental, this note is useful for the landlord or building manager, who under tenancy rules is entitled to know what lock is on the unit and to hold a key. For an owner it is one line in the house file that makes the next locksmith visit, whenever it comes, a simpler conversation.
What shapes the quoteBox Grove Locksmith Pros
FeesSame any hour
The usual position is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which lines the two locks up and keeps both within one reach. Manufacturers' templates assume that spacing, which helps a later keypad or handleset line up, though many handlesets still need their own lower hole drilled to that model's template. The height is nudged if it would land on glass, a decorative panel or a hollow spot inside an insulated door, and to make sure the frame behind it is solid.
The new bolt will only lock as smoothly as the door and frame let it, so the locksmith deals with the cause as part of the installation. A door that has sagged on loose hinges gets longer hinge screws or a shim, thick weatherstrip is trimmed, and the strike is set from the bolt's actual position with the door closed. The pocket is bored deep enough for a full throw. Afterwards the bolt should slide with fingertip effort.
Yes, on nearly any wood, steel-clad or fibreglass entry door. The locksmith marks a spot above the knob, clamps a jig to the door and bores a cross hole through the face and a smaller hole through the edge, then cuts a pocket and fits a strike on the frame. The main things checked first are the door's thickness, what is inside it at that height and whether glass sits close by.
YorkOntario
Deadbolt Installation · Markham, Box Grove, Cedar Grove, Locust Hill
Every square is one home in a hundred.
On-site assessment preferred · (289) 301-8897, open 24/7
